The Fashion Week between punk and museum
Ecological materials, floating dresses, a tribute to punk and fashion shows in museums: overview of this year’s tendencies.
After Vivienne Westwood and her red label line in London, it is Karl Lagerfeld’s turn to mix ecology and haute couture. Under the glass ceiling of the Grand Palais turned into a Zen garden, was presented a bucolic, but chic collection. Chanel revisited with sobriety the most audacious materials. Shoes with plateau soles made out of cork, wooden buttons or straw embroideries... The stylist states “I wanted to give another dimension to ecology, and to present it’s haute couture version, very elegant and luxurious.”
Dresses with shapes full of purity are refined by plain colours, in all shades of white. It’s a master’s stroke, for a collection alluding to the beginnings of Chanel, “queen of beige” of the1920s. Eyeliner in ancient Egyptian style dominates the model’s eye makeup.
At Valentino’s show, Greek goddesses parade with a hairstyle tainted in gold and barefoot in antique inspired dresses. Dior chooses the gardens of the Rodin Museum to set up a real ephemeral gallery of mirrors. While repeating the last year’s surprise concerning the unusual setting for the show, this week Dior presents the first collection since the departure of arts director Raf Simons.
The Kenzo show at the Men’s Fashion Week is great: the models walk around a choir, a kind of human soundtrack. The very accurate cuts adapted to the feminine curves have sparkled during the Elie Saab show at the Haute Couture Women week.
Alternative Haute coutureThis new edition of the Fashion week was first of all characterized by the rapprochement between couture and alternative cultures. Jean Paul Gaultier invited his guests to relive the greatest years of the “Palace, a temple of the 1980s underground scene whose decoration had been almost perfectly well reproduced. A “punk”-inspired collection that mocks an all too codified haute couture.
“Paris is always a party! You must have fun and always enjoy yourself, and do not stop living, on the contrary!”, Jean Paul Gaultier.
The rock’n’roll style smoky created by Sam Bryant and Odile Gilbert’s wacky hairstyles are completed by fishnets and leather. . Just like Eva Ionesco, Gaultier’s mannequins are exuberant, provoking and freed. “Paris is always a party! You must have fun and always enjoy yourself, and do not stop living, on the contrary!” shouts the creator.
The nostalgia of the glam years is expressed in the faces covered by stars – a tribute to David Bowie by Margiela, or the bubble gum eyes totally “pop culture” by Pat MacGrath for Givenchy. Moreover, this retrospective is likely to become one of the major themes of the prêt-à-porter week. There is a sort of nostalgia in the emerging tendencies: the nostalgia of the nineties with its bomber jackets, of long baby doll dresses that remind Kate Moss, of the seventies with bohemian dresses, sheer materials, lace, in a lightness and transparency similar to Chanel. Are these the two principal tendencies in prêt-a-porter? To be continued in summer.